Fontainebleau: Climbing Without Expectation
In March 2025 I finally made it to Fontainebleau, the place every boulderer seems to talk about in almost mythical terms. I went with a big group of friends, which made it even better, and we based ourselves in a beautiful house in Fleury-en-Bière with a woodfired sauna. Some of the group were better at keeping the fires going than others, but that was all part of the fun.
Going in, I had no expectations. I’d heard so many stories about Font that I knew the only way to enjoy it was to just see what happened. It turned out to be a truly memorable trip and I can’t wait to go back.
The Crags We Visited:
Day 1: Bois Rond - A great place to ease into the sandstone.
Day 2: Canche aux Merciers - Endless circuits and something for everyone.
Day 3: 91.1 - We even had our own French photographer with us, a lovely local chap who made the day even more special.
Day 4: Apremont Envers - A proper highlight. We ended up sat on the pads, wrapped in down jackets, eating cheese and drinking wine at the crag. It was exactly how I’d imagined my rest day.
Day 5: Beauvais Nainville - Epic “floor is lava” vibes, jumping from boulder to boulder.
Day 6: Back to Canche aux Merciers - Because once just wasn’t enough.
Circuits and Styles
What struck me most was how much variety there was. Every crag had its own character, and the circuit system makes it really easy to just pick a colour and go. There’s a style for everyone - delicate slabs, steep overhangs, little technical moves, big jumps. It really is like an adult’s playground.
Just Having Fun
Because it was my first trip I decided not to chase grades or get caught up in projects. I just wanted to climb, enjoy myself, and see what Font was all about. That approach made it so much fun - I laughed a lot, tried things I wouldn’t usually, and came away feeling inspired rather than worn down.
By the end of the week our hands were raw from climbing, but I’d do it again in a heartbeat.